Critical Wording

In a world that sometimes feels incredibly depleting, the beauty of human connection reminds us that, despite our geographical differences and our language constraints, empathy and kindness can transcend all of it and foster a sense of belonging.

Every time I travel, I encounter both – people who wish I would go home (one lady in Barcelona asked me where I was from, then said “ah buena, que tan pronto vas a casa” I had to google it. I like to think she was just curious.

Then there are the people who are thankful that we chose their city to explore. Like my Air BNB host in Valencia. She texted me late one night to apologize for the “gangs” blowing things up outside my window.  Again, google doesn’t always get translations. There were groups of young people lighting fireworks for Fallas Festival until the wee hours of the morning. Still, she texted things for us to do every morning and restaurants to try at midday- and insisted on calling all my taxi’s so I was safe. I loved Gianina. We could be great friends.

One thing that is consistent; every person I meet has their own unique stories, challenges, hopes. In spite of where they are in their own walk, they seem to be willing to help me in mine. These interactions, filled with genuine warmth and understanding, reinforce the belief that humanity, at its core, yearns for peace and belonging.

That was my takeaway today in Seville, Spain.

I overslept. My biological clock is completely fu#$% at the moment. Not gonna lie, I usually go to bed at 2am and get up at 10am so it’s never been great.  In Spain, things get rolling around 10am which is ideal for me. Then everyone takes a siesta somewhere between 2-5 or 3-6 and most of the shops close. Right around 7pm it gets tight. The streets are full, taxi’s are squeezing through the tiny alley’s of the Old Town (every city I have been to has an Old Town) and dinner is on. Most people eat around 8pm and then they hang out until 3am – sometimes it takes that long to get the check.

THESE ARE MY PEOPLE. However, when it’s 3am here its 10pm at home and I swear my muscle memory is like “whoooohoooo” let’s goooo! I haven’t been able to switch it – even by staying up all night.

Last night around 10pm I took a muscle relaxer and had a glass of wine and I swear my brain was drunk – I was thinking in broken Spanish, but I was still wide awake. All that to say, I had a tour booked at noon today and I woke up at 11 – after finally falling asleep at 4am.

So, I jumped up and threw on a hat and three layers since I’ve been rained on every day since the middle of Malaga (locals say, this is not normal). Because I am staying at Hotel Palacio de Villapanés in the middle of the Old Town – I have to walk out of here – taxi’s usually don’t come to this side of the Old Town because the streets are too narrow and all cobblestone. Yeah, I know, I didn’t think that through very well.

I check to see how far it is walking and spit the F word when it looks like a 25 minute walk –  I need coffee and ordering anything in Spain is a process if it requires a lot of words… no leche – leche de almendras y soy descafeinada y jarabe de vainilla. Not kidding, most days I just give up on finding decaf which in retrospect could be why I’m still not sleeping.

Did I mention this is a Segway tour. I waited too late to book the TUK TUK tour so Segway was what I got. I’m a badass Segway driver tho so, no problemo. Maricio was waiting for me and after a quick hug (everyone hugs here) and a test spin = Maricio’s surprised face = we had the best tour I’ve been on to date. I learned so much about Seville and Maricio – he’s from Brazil but he identifies with Spain – he FEELS Spanish. Most of his family are in Portugal so I learned some about Portugal too. Seville’s history is bonkers.

Seville is where Columbus launched the Santa Maria and fell in love and built his home – he is buried here. There are tributes to him everywhere as well as a replica of his ship and a whole museum dedicated to maps.

You can tell it took 400 years to build the Seville Temple – the largest temple IN THE WORLD. Every king built some of it from 1400’s – 1800’s From Mosque to Cathedral, from Gothic to Renaissance – the history is all there – it’s the only building in the world with a Christian cross and Arabic arches.

My favorite part about Seville are all the tributes throughout the city to powerful women, tortured women, and rich women. (they have their own tour) We passed through Isabel de Baena Street, María de Virues Street, and Francisca de Chaves Square, (granted they were all tragically killed but they got their own street- oof) a statue of Clara Campoamor, the mother of the Spanish feminist movement – (she died the year I was born), and the Duchess of Alba – who at 84, danced barefoot at her 3rd wedding – she’s a boss.  Lest not forget, Catalina de Ribera, the founder of the Hospital of the Five Wounds and by the river, I saw a statue of Diana the Huntress.

The University in the center of the Old Town used to be the headquarters of Tobacco manufacturing and only women were allowed to work there because apparently they had tiny soft hands to roll your cigs. Also Don Juan was from here and there is a statue of him in a square south of town. Beside the kings palace, on a beautiful building with a patio overlooking the river is a plaque of Washington Irving (the writer) – I personally thought he was hotter than Don Juan.  You can now rent his apartment if you are a aspiring writer. (i’m so doing that but mostly for the prime patio overlooking the river)

Eventually, two hours later, we ended up back at the starting point and after a quick adios hug for Maricio – I decided to find a cafe and get that coffee.

This is where it gets sappy. I was standing in line waiting for an outdoor table and there was a guy sitting outside with his little white puppy obviously looking for someone to bring him a check. If you are in a hurry, Spain is not your jam. I pointed it out to the hostess but my Spanish is not great and I think I said “the son with the cat at the table in the sun would like a check” to which she glazed over and went back to looking at anything but me. A four top came in and the hostess told them i was in line first and she would get to them once I was seated. They felt bad for walking in front of me and I said “no problemo, mi familia” in jest and we all started talking.  Pierre, who spoke perfect English, asked me where I was from. I said “the states” and he said “ah, were from Canada”. He had the kindest eyes.

I’ve never felt shame like i did at that moment. Perhaps my guard is up and everything hits a little harder these days but we knew. I hugged him and told him “I love Canada” and he said “we love America” and suddenly, we were friends..

About that time the table opened up and the hostess came to get me. I told her to give the table to my new friend, Pierre, and I would wait.  Pierre wasn’t having it though and he and his friends insisted that I join them. Not gonna lie, its this kind of unconditional kindness that makes us stronger. In that moment, I would have put my body between this regime and their country.

As we got settled and ordered, Louise introduced everyone to me.  Katya, who was Russian born and Danny from France had been married for a long time, Pierre and Louise were both from Quebec and both had lost their spouses (and perhaps found each other).  They were all acutely intelligent and well travelled. They usually spend the winter months in Florida but this year decided to try Portugal. They came to Seville for the day and here they were, sharing lunch with a stranger – from a country that is threatening to “take over” their country.

Eventually the conversation came around to the leader of the free world (for now). Was he serious? They seemed surprised that I thought he was. I told them, I thought he was testing the boundaries of what Congress, the courts, and his cult followers would allow.  That’s what he will do.  He will do whatever we collectively allow.  Where Canada is concerned, I think Europe will intervene and perhaps he will back off – I don’t think Greenland will get off that easily.  They asked the same questions we are all asking. What can we do?  We all seem to be watching and waiting and talking. Protests come and go and public officials  refuse to have conversations because they know…they know. Now he is attacking the courts, the media, and the Universities. The playbook is written, now we see what they will allow. Push all the boundaries and see what they will push back on.

It was a downer conversation in a beautiful city over a wonderful lunch that they absolutely refused to let me pay for.

That my friends, is worth protecting.

An hour later, we exchanged cards and emails and I took this pic. Until today, I have never not wanted to be an American. What an epiphany.

Fear can be a powerful weapon – but only if we give in to it.